文山麻栗坡：老山古树茶的新机遇 Wenshan Malipo: A New Opportunity for Old Mountain Ancient Tree Tea

翻开尘封的历史，1729年（清雍正七年），普洱茶荣膺“贡茶国礼”殊荣。当年八月初六，云南巡抚沈廷正向朝廷呈上珍贵的普洱茶叶，包含：大普茶二箱，中普茶二箱，小普茶二箱……2023年4月23日，麻栗坡古树茶入选“国礼目录”。

为何是老山古树茶？麻栗坡并非普洱茶四大茶区，老山也不在普洱茶六大名山之列。一时间，众人将目光投向文山州麻栗坡县，老山古树茶受到关注。

采茶。

茶出老山

“猛硐瑶族乡茶坪山古树茶园是麻栗坡县最大、最连片的古树茶园，园区面积2000余亩，共有百年以上古树近10000棵。”麻栗坡县茶业协会副会长骆诗治介绍，该茶叶主产区森林覆盖率高达68.6%，自然资源十分丰富。近年来，当地严禁砍伐修剪古茶树枝和使用草甘膦，使得古树茶的原生品质得以保障。麻栗坡县拥有总面积达2.35万亩的茶叶种植地，其中，古茶树11913亩，台地茶11675亩，古茶树占全县茶叶总面积的50.5%。

麻栗坡县的猛硐瑶族乡、杨万乡、马街乡、麻栗镇4个乡镇被列入普洱茶地理标志产品保护区域。2021年，猛硐瑶族乡茶叶入选农业农村部第11批全国“一村一品”示范村镇。该县有4500亩茶园获得绿色茶园认证，有5560亩茶园获得有机茶园认证，形成以老山、高朋、瑶君山等主要品牌。

骆诗治表示，麻栗坡县的台地茶园大多建立于20世纪60年代，平均树龄超过50年，属于野生茶树。麻栗坡的古树白茶，具有独特的茶香，并且在不同的茶山，花香、果香味都不同。

从业人员推介制茶过程。

倾情帮扶

徐玉艳是麻栗坡县家茗茶叶合作社的负责人。2023年，家茗茶叶合作社生产的“茶小红”“茶小绿”进入“国礼目录”，与之共同入选还有是麻栗坡县轸寅茶艺专业合作社生产的“龙珠茶”。

“农民不脱贫，帮扶不脱钩。”1992年，外交部便开始定点帮扶麻栗坡县。30多年来，帮扶力度持续加大，据统计，外交部在麻栗坡的帮扶资金达2.58亿元，实施了1010个帮扶项目，乡村振兴成果显现，当地群众幸福感不断提升。

产业是增收的基础，也是帮扶的关键。作为麻栗坡县绿色生态农业的“明星产业”，茶产业一直是外交部牵挂的焦点。为发展麻栗坡茶产业，外交部实施两种帮扶模式：一是采用“公司+农户管理”模式，改良茶叶种植基地，提升产品质量，建设名优绿茶生产线；另一种是采用“合作社+基地+农户”模式，扶持专业合作社发展，加大高端产品研发和品牌建设。

为拓展销售渠道，外交部极力推介与老山古树茶有关的产品，并帮助当地茶企进入各大平台销售。2023年4月23日，在首届老山国际春茶节上，外交部工作人员宣布将麻栗坡古树茶列为“国礼名录”。

茶厂工人正在忙碌。

政府助力

在猛硐瑶族乡陶阿哥种植养殖专业合作社，骆诗治品尝着杯中的春茶，连声赞道：“不错，是春天的味道。”

2019年，陶旭成立了陶阿哥合作社从事茶叶生产。“2023年，麻栗坡县茶农的户均收入是6700元。而在陶阿哥合作社，茶农的户均收入是8000元。”陶旭说，合作社有两位老人，去年仅靠茶叶就获得3.8万元的收入。

2023年10月24日，是麻栗坡茶产业发展的重要一天。三件喜事同时发生：麻栗坡县政府在县城河滨公园打造的“茶叶一条街”举行开街仪式；政府引进的新华国茶厂在猛硐瑶族乡的新开发区举行开业仪式；政府引进的吴侨茶业公司在云南麻栗坡边境经济合作区乡村振兴示范园举行生产车间开工仪式。骆诗治认为，“两厂一街”的开业，标志着麻栗坡县茶产业链迈向新的高度。

新华国茶厂是由当地政府出资建厂，然后以招商引资的方式，引进香港新华集团进行合作。公司每年为猛硐瑶族乡5个村委会带来80万元房租收入，促进了村集体经济发展。该企业将通过规范化、标准化的生产模式，不断提升麻栗坡茶叶品质和知名度，拓宽销售渠道。

“公司主打‘友谊茶’，将老山古树茶品牌通过海外销售渠道推广。”新华国茶厂副厂长张国文介绍，公司除了享受政府提供的基础设施及租用厂房外，还看中了猛硐瑶族乡优质且价位低的古树茶资源。同时，公司要帮助指导当地109家茶叶作坊走向规范化，帮助当地茶农增收致富。

今年3月19日，麻栗坡启动了“老山茶”系列产品团体标准项目。通过委托云南省茶叶流通协会标准化办公室和云南茶叶评价检测溯源中心制定“老山茶”系列产品团体标准，推进麻栗坡茶产业标准化体系的建设，引领该产业向高质量、标准化、规范化发展。（黄铭、贡丽丽、陈绍伦、王正委 文/图）

Opening the dusty history, in 1729 (the seventh year of the Yongzheng reign of the Qing Dynasty), Pu'er tea was honored with the title of "tribute tea national gift". On August 6th of that year, Yunnan Governor Shen Ting presented precious Pu erh tea to the court, including two boxes of Da Pu tea, two boxes of Zhong Pu tea, and two boxes of Xiao Pu tea... On April 23, 2023, Malipo Ancient Tree Tea was included in the "National Gift Catalog".

Why Old Mountain Ancient Tree Tea? Malipo is not one of the four major tea regions for Pu'er tea, and Laoshan is also not among the six famous mountains for Pu'er tea. For a moment, everyone turned their attention to Malipo County in Wenshan Prefecture, and Laoshan Ancient Tree Tea received attention.

Tea leaves the old mountain

Mengdong Yao Ethnic Township Chapingshan Ancient Tree Tea Garden is the largest and most contiguous ancient tree tea garden in Malipo County, with an area of over 2000 acres and nearly 10000 ancient trees over a hundred years old. "Luo Shizhi, Vice President of Malipo County Tea Industry Association, introduced that the forest coverage rate of the main tea producing area is as high as 68.6%, and the natural resources are very abundant. In recent years, local authorities have strictly prohibited the cutting and pruning of ancient tea branches and the use of glyphosate, ensuring the original quality of ancient tea. Malipo County has a total tea planting area of 23500 acres, including 11913 acres of ancient tea trees and 11675 acres of plateau tea. Ancient tea trees account for 50.5% of the total tea planting area in the county.

Mengdong Yao Township, Yangwan Township, Majie Township, and Malizhen Township in Malipo County have been included in the geographical indication product protection area for Pu'er tea. In 2021, Mengdong Yao Ethnic Township tea was selected as one of the 11th batch of national "One Village, One Product" demonstration villages and towns by the Ministry of Agriculture and Rural Affairs. There are 4500 acres of tea gardens in the county that have obtained green tea garden certification, and 5560 acres of tea gardens that have obtained organic tea garden certification, forming major brands such as Laoshan, Gaopeng, and Yaojunshan.

Luo Shizhi stated that most of the plateau tea gardens in Malipo County were established in the 1960s, with an average age of over 50 years, and belong to wild tea trees. The ancient tree white tea of Malipo has a unique tea aroma, and the floral and fruity aromas vary in different tea mountains.

Recommend the tea making process.

Practitioners recommend the tea making process.

Sincere assistance

Xu Yuyan is the head of Jiaming Tea Cooperative in Malipo County. In 2023, "Cha Xiaohong" and "Cha Xiaolu" produced by Jiaming Tea Cooperative entered the "National Gift Catalog", along with "Dragon Ball Tea" produced by Zhuyin Tea Art Professional Cooperative in Malipo County.

In 1992, the Ministry of Foreign Affairs began to provide targeted assistance to Malipo County, stating that "farmers cannot escape poverty, and assistance cannot be disconnected. Over the past 30 years, the assistance efforts have continued to increase. According to statistics, the Ministry of Foreign Affairs has provided 258 million yuan in assistance funds in Malipo, implemented 1010 assistance projects, and achieved remarkable results in rural revitalization, continuously improving the happiness of local people.

Industry is the foundation for increasing income and the key to assistance. As the "star industry" of green ecological agriculture in Malipo County, the tea industry has always been a focus of concern for the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. To develop the Malipo tea industry, the Ministry of Foreign Affairs has implemented two assistance models: one is to adopt the "company+farmer management" model, improve tea planting bases, enhance product quality, and build high-quality green tea production lines; Another approach is to adopt the "cooperative+base+farmers" model, support the development of professional cooperatives, and increase the research and development of high-end products and brand building.

To expand sales channels, the Ministry of Foreign Affairs vigorously promotes products related to Laoshan Ancient Tree Tea and helps local tea companies enter major platforms for sales. On April 23, 2023, at the first Laoshan International Spring Tea Festival, staff members of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs announced that Malipo Ancient Tree Tea would be included in the "National Gift List".

Busy tea factory workers.

The tea factory workers are busy.

Government assistance

At the Tao Agu Planting and Breeding Professional Cooperative in Mengdong Yao Township, Luo Shizhi tasted the spring tea in his cup and praised it repeatedly, "Not bad, it's the taste of spring

In 2019, Tao Xu established Tao Ague Cooperative to engage in tea production. In 2023, the average household income of tea farmers in Malipo County will be 6700 yuan. In the Tao Ague Cooperative, the average household income of tea farmers is 8000 yuan. Tao Xu said that the cooperative has two elderly people who earned 38000 yuan in income last year solely from tea.

October 24, 2023 is an important day for the development of the Malipo tea industry. Three happy events happened simultaneously: the Malipo County Government held a street opening ceremony for the "Tea Street" built in the Riverside Park of the county town; The Xinhua National Tea Factory, introduced by the government, held its opening ceremony in the new development zone of Mengdong Yao Township; The Wuqiao Tea Industry Company, introduced by the government, held a groundbreaking ceremony for its production workshop at the Rural Revitalization Demonstration Park in Malipo Border Economic Cooperation Zone, Yunnan. Luo Shizhi believes that the opening of "Two Factories and One Street" marks a new height for the tea industry chain in Malipo County.

Xinhua National Tea Factory was established with funding from the local government, and then introduced Hong Kong Xinhua Group for cooperation through investment promotion. The company brings 800000 yuan in rental income to 5 village committees in Mengdong Yao Township every year, promoting the development of the village collective economy. The enterprise will continuously improve the quality and popularity of Malipo tea and expand sales channels through standardized and standardized production models.

The company focuses on 'Friendship Tea' and promotes the Laoshan Ancient Tree Tea brand through overseas sales channels, "said Zhang Guowen, deputy director of Xinhua National Tea Factory. In addition to enjoying government provided infrastructure and renting factory buildings, the company also values the high-quality and low-priced ancient tree tea resources in Mengdong Yao Township. At the same time, the company needs to help guide 109 local tea workshops towards standardization and assist local tea farmers in increasing their income and becoming prosperous.

On March 19th of this year, Malipo launched the "Laoshan Tea" series product group standard project. By entrusting the Standardization Office of Yunnan Tea Circulation Association and Yunnan Tea Evaluation, Testing and Traceability Center to develop group standards for the "Laoshan Tea" series products, we aim to promote the construction of a standardized system for the Malipo tea industry and lead the industry towards high-quality, standardized and regulated development. (Text/Image by Huang Ming, Gong Lili, Chen Shaolun, Wang Zhengwei)